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I don't confess to being a camera repair person nor an
expert on How-To but I consider myself "Handy", "Jack of all
Trades Master of a Few". Photography is my passion not my lively hood that
I owe to being on active Duty in the US Navy. My profession is a Technical Technician
with over 20 years experience. I started fixing these AGFA's/ANSCO's for myself
and to use in a Basic Black & White Photography class I teach. I wanted a
inexpensive manual camera and Medium Format. After buying a few I came to relies
the problem with older cameras and is was not worth paying to have them fixed.
Hence "Rebuilding an Agfa" after researching and reading a few books I
started on my first rebuild. That one went bad real fast after following someone
else's procedures I cracked the lens. I have rebuilt/refurbished 50+ to date and
still learning as I go. I do not go in to shutter repair that's something that's
a hit or miss with me at this time. Most of the AGFA's have frozen focus rings
when they were made 50+ years ago what ever lubricant that was used turned out
to be a very good cement (with a long cure time). Some of my procurers and
methods may not be from camera 101 but what ever works. Before continuing complete
the: I have Read and Accept the disclaimer at end of page
I have a couple of rules:
1. If it's meant to come apart don't force it
2. Do no Harm
3. Make it better than when you started
4. Take detailed drawings and/or pictures (love digital) as you take them
apart.
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BEFORE: Not Bad But...
This is the before not a bad camera: Lens ring frozen, Top plate
rusted, Viewfinder dirty, Bellows fair but one or two Pin Holes, Plus
the whole camera needs a good cleaning.
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AFTER: Makes a rather Striking Camera
This is the after something to look forward to: All to the left have
been fixed. Also I tried something different the rust on the top plate
would not come off so I removed it down to the Brass.
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| After checking the focus ring was found to be frozen also to clean the
lens you start here. |
Three very small screws are located around
the focus ring. They are made of soft aluminum and will strip easily.
just unscrew them just enough to remove the focus ring. |
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If after taking the ring off and trying to unscrew the first lens
element and it does not budge. Take tape I use Gaffers (leaves no
sticky) masking would do fine and wrap the treads of the lens. |
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After the lens are apart be careful with them. Don't sit them on hard
objects or let them get scratched. The first cleaning is rather robust
using either the Nail Polish Remover or alcohol and a small brush (it's
time for a new tooth brush any way) or an acid brush that's been trimmed
short. Use toothpicks or a straight pin to get the hardened lubrication
out of the threads. Also use Lots of Q-Tips. |
| After the gunk is off it's time to clean the lens.
Windex and Lots of Q-Tips.
Kodak lens cleaner and Lots of Q-Tips.
For Fungus try a 1:1 mixture of Ammonia and Hydrogen Peroxide and
Lots of Q-Tips.
Finally check the leans with back lighting don't worry about the
little bubbles in the glass all lens have them. You can also use a Micro
Fiber Cloth at the end wrapped around a Q-tip to get in the tight spots.
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Put the cleaned lens in a safe place |
| With the front element of the Lens removed the middle element can be
cleaned in place if care is taken. |
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First all the old lubricant that is in the threads of the focus mount
needs to be cleaned out. The first cleaning is rather robust
using either the Nail Polish Remover or alcohol and an acid brush that's been trimmed
short. Use toothpicks or a straight pin to get the hardened lubrication
out of the threads. Also use Lots of Q-Tips. |
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After the gunk is off it's time to clean the lens.
Windex and Lots of Q-Tips.
Kodak lens cleaner and Lots of Q-Tips.
For Fungus try a 1:1 mixture of Ammonia and Hydrogen Peroxide and
Lots of Q-Tips.
Finally check the leans with back lighting don't worry about the
little bubbles in the glass all lens have them. You can also use a Micro
Fiber Cloth at the end wrapped around a Q-tip to get in the tight spots.
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The removal of the Top Plate is pretty straight forward. Be careful
it's easy to round off the heads of the screws this is where a good set
of screw drivers come in handy. |
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I put in a empty spool to keep the wind mechanism from falling inside
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| This all it takes three screws. Clean all the parts and put them away
(small Tupper ware works great). If you look to the right of the viewer
this top plate has a lot of corrosion. This when I decided to try
something new. I removed all (most) of the chrome finish down to the
brass. |
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Bare top plate |
| The glass in the viewfinder is non-removable just clean in place. |
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The viewfinder Lens comes out easily for cleaning.
Flat side out when reinstalling.
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| Clean the glass lens as before. |
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This is one of the specialty tools that's hard to work with out. I
also use a 1 inch stiff putty knife like a large screw driver. |
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Open up the back of the camera and cover the Lens with Gaffer's tape
(or what ever tape you have) This will help protect it just incase you
slip. |
| Use the spanner wrench and unscrew the lens element. That's the center
portion. |
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Remove the Back Len's element and clean like the other lens. Set aside
for now. |
| Use a small wood doll or a screw driver and open the front of the
camera by depressing the button housing. |
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With the shutter exposed set the f/ to the smallest number (aperture
wide open) and select B for the shutter speed. The shutter will stay
open as long as the shutter release is depressed. |
| In this case the lever is held open with a rubber band. This gives
access to the center lens with out having to remove it for cleaning.
Clean as before and check for any dust before installing the back
element. |
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| After the Middle Len's has been cleaned use a little air to blow out
the shutter and reinstall the Back Len's following the removal in
reverse. Remove the rubber band and close the front door before
starting. |
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| After checking the out side of the camera it was decided to do a
little paint touch up. First any rust was removed this is where the
Dremal tool comes in real handy. |
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Using Black High Gloss model paint and a good brush I painted around
the door and parts of the case. |
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With the lights out use a Flash or Flash Light to check the Bellows
for light leaks.
The best way to repair
bellows is to replace them this adds +$100 to the cost of the camera. I have
been carrying an AGFA ISOLETTE for almost a year with fixed/repaired bellows.
Though my method of repair is not probably the correct way to fix bellows
(replacement is). For the few rolls
(15 this year) of film I use the
camera for it is the most cost effective.
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| After every couple of rolls I check
the Bellows (shine a flash light in them) and check for any holes so far none
... so my repair is holding up. If you were going to use the camera a lot and
every day maybe look in to one with replaced bellows. At least I’m saying that
I put something on the bellows. I have two sitting on my bench that look like
they were fixed with tire patch material and tape or are completely
unrepairable. At present I’m having new bellows made for me at which time
I’ll start putting new bellows on them. |
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If the Bellows are not light tight little pin holes of light can be
seen mostly at the corners. |
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Different books
recommend about a dozen different methods and I have tried a few of them but
with the AGFA’s this works best. This is the repair for
this type of bellows as they are a plastic type of material not leather
(that’s another story)
A mixture of
Ethyl acetate, butyl
acetate, nitrocellulose, isopropyl alcohol, neopentyl, glycol and the list goes
on it is sold in small bottles under the name Wet’n’Wild
nail color and I like #424 black cream. I know what your thinking but
it’s a form of liquid plastic
with fillers and bonding materials added.
I
put a two coats on the entire corner section of the bellows and recheck after
they dry. I open and close the camera a few times and check for light
leaks.
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Before putting the Top Plate on put a little lubricant in the shutter
and release holes. This makes for a smooth shutter and release mechanism. |
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While you have the lubricant out use a tooth pick and put very little
on the threads of the First Element. Thread this in and twist it in and
out a few times. This is the Focusing part of the Len's and must be
smooth. |
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After taking all the lens apart and removing the Focus Ring the camera
needs to be Refocused. I also took some Metal Polish to the ring to
remove some grime. |
| Cut some wax paper the width of 120 film tape and roll some together. |
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Load the wax paper film in the camera. |
| Take the camera outside and mount it on a tripod. Lock the shutter
open and set the f/stop wide open. Keep the back open and aim it at
something 300feet or more away. Use the wax paper as a Focusing Glass of
a View Camera turn the First Len's Element in and out till your image is
in Focus (upside down is correct). Reinstall the Focus ring at infinity
and lightly tighten down the three small screws. Now check your focus at
different ranges i.e. 3 feet, 12 feet and so on. If your satisfied
retighten the three screws. |
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I'm not into the high tech solvents and cleaners as you have seen so
far most are every day common cleaners. Hay if it work's on my new car
why not my 40 year old camera. |
| I put all the chemicals in one picture for you. |
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| The Shine' N Go is great stuff just a little silicone helps keep the
rust down on the metal parts and makes the learthett shine . Put it on let it sit than wipe it off with
a dry towel. While your at it do your shoes. |
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Just a few of the tools that are need not really specialty tools just
basic modelers tools. |
| When your all done this is what is used up. I should buy stock in
Q-Tip. |
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Disclaimer : Your on your own this is informational only and I except no responsibility
for your repairs.
Things you can do to check it out.
1. Chock and fire the shutter at all speeds. Watch the
aperture blades open and close. a.
If it doesn’t work at all beyond me to fix---new/replacement shutter.
b. Blades open and close erratic / slow caused by oil on the blades ---
sometimes a disassembly and alcohol cleaning will fix it.
2, Set the shutter on B aperture wide
open. Open the back, release and hold the shutter while looking at a light.
a. Check the lens for Fungus, haze and separation.
3.Open the back up extend the bellows / lens assembly. In
the dark take a strong flash light into the bellows epically the corners looking
for light leaks. --- Some pin holes can be temporally fixed if bad new bellows
are needed ($$$)
Do the above things that would let me know the extent of
the camera.
If this was a help to you and you would like to donate a
buck or two to keep me up on line - Through PayPal
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